Belgium's Academic Heart: A Guide
A day in Leuven: History, culture and beer.
Just 25 minutes by train from Brussels lies a youthful city where students rule, beers flow and the sweet sound of carillon bells fills the air. This is Leuven—Belgium’s beating academic heart, and a city I proudly call home.
Although the region has been inhabited for thousands of years, the first recorded mention of Leuven came in 891, with the Battle of Leuven—where the Frankish army defeated the invading Vikings. The city played a very important role in the region as a trading, cultural and religious centre in the Middle Ages.
A turning point came in 1425 when the Catholic University of Leuven was founded—the oldest existing catholic university. Its establishment attracted scholars, theologians and artists from around Europe, which, in turn, brought wealth to the city. This wealth is still visible today in Leuven’s stunning Brabantine Gothic town hall—the city’s most iconic building(but more on that later)
However, most of what you see today is not original as much of the city was turned to ashes by the Germans during WWI—this was called the Sack of Leuven, part of the broader campaign known as the Rape of Belgium. The original library was razed to the ground and the Town Hall only narrowly escaped total destruction. Despite this, the city was meticulously rebuilt after the war ended and, dare I say, became even more beautiful upon its reconstruction.
This incredible city should absolutely be on your bucket list when visiting Belgium—so here is how to spend a perfect day in Leuven.
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Arrival at the station
Leuven is well-connected to other Belgian cities, with frequent trains running to and from Brussels and beyond. Most visitors will arrive by train and immediately be welcomed by Leuven’s Eclectic-style train station.
Pro tip:
On weekends, train tickets are 50% off. And if you are under 26, the Youth Tickets offer a fixed low price regardless of where in the country you are coming from. It is great a deal for longer distances but for shorter trips—like Brussels—it might be cheaper to go with the standard fare. Be sure to check both options to be sure.
The Bondgenotenlaan
The Bondgenotenlaan is a 1-kilometer-long boulevard that connects the station to the Grote Markt. This street was laid out in the mid-19th century with the sole purpose of connecting the newly built station with the city centre.
In the Sack of Leuven, this street was almost completely reduced to ashes, however, reconstruction came swiftly. The Advisory Committee for Urban Beauty wanted to turn tragedy into a triumph-story by adorning the boulevard with revivalist architecture—symbolising Leuven’s rebirth.
Today, the street showcases a diverse range of architectural styles, from Neo-Flemish Renaissance to Art Deco. It this is also the city’s main shopping street—the other being the parallel Diestsestraat.
The University Library and the Ladeuzeplein
While strolling down the stunning Bondgenotenlaan towards the Grote Markt, a tall bell tower may catch your eye—or ear— off to the left. This is the University Library. Do not let its Flemish Renaissance look fool you, this magnificent structure is actually relatively new—it was finished in 1928.
After the Sack of Leuven, the original library—now the admissions office on Naamsestraat—was completely destroyed, thousands of irreplaceable books were completely charred. The current library was a gift from the American people to the Belgians, made possible through nationwide fundraising campaigns by U.S. schools and universities—many of which now have their names carved along the outer walls of the library.
Sadly, history repeated itself when the Germans burned the library to the ground again in World War II. Only around 15000 out of 900000 books escaped the fire. Inside the tower there is a museum telling the history of the building and at the top you will find some of the most stunning views of Leuven.
Practical tips:
The library is open from 9:00 to 19:00 during weekdays and from 10:00 to 18:00 on weekends and holidays. The last visit to the tower is at 17:00 for all days and the reading hall is only open on weekends. For more practical info please check their official website.
Pro tip:
The library hosts two free carillon concerts a week—on Tuesday evenings and Wednesday afternoon. What many don’t know is that you can request your favourite songs to the Carillonneur, if you are lucky, your request might just echo around the streets of Leuven. You can find more information here.
Photographer’s tip:
The best time to photograph its ornate façade is in the late afternoon and evening as this is when the sun moves to the front of the building and brings out all its details and golden highlights.
The Grote Markt and the Town Hall
At the end of the Bondgenotenlaan lies the beating heart of Leuven—the Grote Markt, a central square with some of the most beautiful and iconic buildings in the city. The undeniable star of the show is the medieval Town Hall, often considered the most beautiful example of Brabantine Gothic architecture.
Built between 1439 and 1469, the town hall is frequently described as one of the most beautiful in the world, and it’s not hard to see why. The level of craftsmanship required to bring stone to life is staggering. Each corbel(the support beneath the statues) is adorned with biblical passages carved intricately in stone. There are 235 statues(236 before 2019, when Leopold II was removed). These are split into 3 symbolic sections: the lowest section is dedicated to illustrious locals—think artists, scholars and mayors; the middle level is reserved for patron saints; and the uppermost level features the dukes of Brabant and kings of Belgium. Have a look at the statues, find anyone you recognise? Hint: one of them gave us the projection we use on most 2D maps today.
Across the square from the Town Hall stands the unfinished Sint-Pieterskerk(St. Peter’s Church), another Brabantine Gothic gem from around the same period. Designed to be the tallest building in the world at the time of construction at a staggering 170m—but today, it stands at less than a third of its intended height. Inside the church you can find part of the scale model for the planned tower, along with paintings and sculptures by Flemish and Brabantian masters. I will not go into too much detail about the churches of Leuven in this article, as I plan to dedicate a separate post for them in the future. For now, you can find a full itinerary of Leuven’s churches on this website.
Practical tip:
As of 2025, the Town Hall is not open for visitors as it is undergoing extensive renovations in its interior. The church is closed on Wednesdays, but open for the rest of the week from 10:00 to 16:30, except on Sundays, when it opens at 11:00.
Photographer’s tip:
The best time to photograph the Town Hall and the Church is in the morning, the sunlight beautifully bathes these two buildings. However, if you visit in late spring or summer, you might want return during sunset for some golden hour shots of the Town Hall—this is when the sun aligns perfectly with the Town Hall’s façade, giving the white limestone a glowing orange hue. This does not happen during other times of the year.
Lunch break
By this point you’re probably feeling a bit peckish. Thankfully, Leuven—as a student city—offers a wide range of affordable restaurants and bars to suit every taste.
There are two main restaurant streets:
Tiensestraat - where you will find many of Belgium’s popular chains like Wasbar, Bavet, Poule & Poulette and Manhattn’s
Muntstraat - a charming, narrow alley filled with more upscale and international restaurants.
Here are some of my recommendations:
Burgers:
Manhattn’s, Ellis and Burger Folie - All offer student discounts.
Traditional Belgian cuisine:
Notre Dame - Offers classics like stoofvlees, vol-au-vent and Moules-Frites
Vegan:
Tabi Loo - short menu but incredible food, especially burgers and sides.
Asian:
Momo House(Nepalese)
Heli’s(Chinese, Japanese and Korean)
Seoul South Station(Korean fried chicken)
Ah Quy(Vietnamese).
Ribs:
Resto Ribs - Unlimited ribs for €25
Frituur:
Fritboutique - you can’t get more Belgian than fries with sauce plus a snack
Salads:
Hawaiian Poke Bowl and Ruba for something more light and fresh
Alternatively, just stroll these streets until you see a place that catches your eyes—but do check Google for the latest reviews.
Pro Tip:
I cannot stress this enough, if you are a student(from anywhere!) bring your student card, many of these big chains offer student discounts like a free drink, a free portion of fries or a menu with a reduced price. It is a good way to save a few euros!
Drinks and Desserts
After lunch, it would be a good idea to stop for a quick coffee and/or a dessert to go. Students love sweets and to hang out in cute cafés so you will likely find something for your taste. My recommendations:
Sweets:
Dewerf - famous for its terrace, small bites and sweets(like the Speculoos Tiramisu)
Coffee:
Mont and Madmum - both are known for their good coffee.
Waffles:
Pinocchio, Pinguino and ‘t Galetje - all three make great waffles with all of the best toppings.
Ice Cream:
Pinguino and ‘t Galetje - these two are the most popular ice cream places in Leuven, so expect queues on sunny days.
Chocolate:
Quetzal - a must visit for chocoholics.
Bubble Tea:
Doka and t’more enjoy - both are good options but Doka wins extra points for its dog and cat, Sushi and Sashimi.
The Oude Markt
Now that you’ve replenished your energy, it is time to stretch your legs again. Head to the Oude Markt—a vibrant square affectionately dubbed the world’s longest bar. With over 40 different bars, it is easy to see where it gets its name from.
This square was not spared during the Sack of Leuven. Most of the square had to be completely rebuilt. If you spot the symbol below on the façade of any building in Leuven, it means they were destroyed and later rebuilt after the war:
By day, square is lively and family-friend, perfect for an afternoon drink in one of its many terraces. But at night—especially on Thursday nights—this square tranforms into a student party central. Imagine music, crowds and plenty of beer. But we’ll talk more about the drinking culture of the city later ;)
Photographer’s tip:
Honestly, this square is beautiful to photograph at any time of the day. If you wish to capture its east-facing façades(see the first two photo), then visit in the morning or early afternoon. For the west-facing façades(see the two last photos) then come later in the afternoon.
The Groot Begijnhof
The Groot Begijnhof— or Great Beguinage—is the largest in Belgium and one of Leuven’s most peaceful, picturesque corners. These enclosed communities were once a haven for Beguines: religious women who dedicated their lives to God without withdrawing fully from the rest of the world.
Founded in the 13th century, most buildings date from the 15th and 16th centuries. The area was almost completely abandoned in the 1960s—until KU Leuven stepped in. The university offered to revitalise and maintain the entire quarter in exchange for ownership. The last beguine passed away in the 80s.
Today, the beguinage is home to students, professors and university guests. It’s one of the most beautiful areas in Leuven to simply walk and wander aimlessly—where the only sounds are the rushing waters of the Dyle and the winds rustling the leaves of the trees in its many quiet courtyards, creating an atmosphere that feels untouched by time.
The Botanical Garden
If you are visiting Leuven in spring or summer, the Botanical Garden is a must-see—especially during wisteria season. The Hortus Botanicus Lovaniensis is Belgium’s oldest botanical garden. It was founded in 1738 by Henri-Joseph Rega, a professor of medicine at the University of Leuven. Its original purpose was to cultivate herbs for medicinal research.
The garden’s elegant orangery, built in the early 1800s by Charles Vander Straeten, was built strictly in the Neoclassical style.
Today, the garden houses hundreds of different plant species—from desert cacti to lush evergreens—it offers a peaceful, green haven right in the heart of the city.
Practical tips:
It is open for visitors everyday from 8:00 to 17:00.
Photographer’s tip:
For the best lighting inside the orangery, I recommend visiting in the afternoon. However, for the gardens themselves, I recommend the morning.
Bonus:
These places are a bit outside the city centre and harder to fit into a single day’s visit. However, if you have extra time, you should check them out too!
Arenberg Castle:
A beautiful Flemish Renaissance castle surrounded by forests, meadows and walking paths—perfect for a relaxing stroll and a picnic. Today, it houses the architecture faculty of the university.
Park Abbey:
A well-preserved, large Baroque abbey complex set amidst peaceful greenery.
The Small Beguinage and St. Gertrude’s Church:
The lesser-known sibling of the Great Beguinage. Its church, St. Gertrude’s, is one of the Seven Wonders of Leuven—its stone spire is built without a single nail or metal support. It is pure stone masonry.
The Vlierbeek Abbey:
Another historic abbey with beautiful gardens, stunning countryside walks and an incredible beer(which you can try in the Abbey’s restaurants).
The Keizerberg Abbey & Hill:
Climb the hill for panoramic views of Leuven. As of May 2025 the belvedere is closed for renovations, but it is expected to reopen soon.
The Stella Brewery:
For the beer lovers, it might be worth doing a 2-hour guided tour of AB InBev’s Stella Artois brewery on the edge of the city. This tour takes you the brewing process and the company’s history, and it all comes to a delicious close with a 30-minute beer tasting session!
Beers!
We have now reached the most exciting part of the day. After a full day of walking, there is nothing better than kicking back with a cold beer—or two(or more, who’s counting?). Head back to the world’s longest bar and its surroundings, and drink your heart out to Belgium’s heavenly malt nectar. Belgium has an extensive beer brewing heritage, and this is especially true for Leuven. Home to the world-famous Stella Artois, Leuven boasted no less than 40 different breweries just 100 years ago—though most have since been absorbed by AB InBev.
Thanks to this legacy, you’ll find beers for all tastes here, whether you prefer hoppy IPAs, caramelised tripels, or fruity krieks, you are sure to find one you like. Here are some of my favourite bars to check out:
The Farao:
Great atmosphere, awesome music, and an even better selection of beers.
Stapleton’s:
A little outside Oude Markt, this atmospheric Irish pub is just a two-minute walk away. The bar’s name is a symbolic connection between Belgium and Ireland.
De Metafoor:
This bar offers games, impeccable music, and even a smoke room for those who want to enjoy a drink alongside a cigar or cigarette.
De Giraf:
Home to some of the craziest and most creative shots you will ever find. Pick from dozens of options and enjoy—I won’t spoil too much, but I personally enjoy the Harry Potter shots.
De Blawe Kater:
Located in the Vismarkt—another beautiful square in the city centre—De Blawe Kater features great music(sometimes live) and a lovely selection of beers.
Student tip:
Remember when I told you to bring your student card no matter where you are from? Now’s the time to use it. Most faculties in Leuven have their own faculty bars—or Fakbars, as we call them—that sell beers at a reduced price. The main ones are Recup, Dulci, Politika Kaffee and Huis der Rechten. You can find them on Instagram to check if they have any interesting events that coincide with your visit. Beware that some events are faculty exclusive, so not everyone can enter. And also keep in mind most of them do not open on the weekends or summer, when most students are gone.
One Last Sip
Leuven might be a small city but it packs a rich and varied experience into every corner—it does no matter if you’re admiring ornate Gothic façades, wandering through its peaceful beguinages, or sipping on world-class beer in the company of students and locals. This itinerary only scratches the surface of what Leuven has to offer, and I hope that it has inspired you to discover this wonderful city for yourself.
Whether you are here just for a day or a weekend, Leuven rewards the slow wanderers—those with a curious eye and a willingness to take spontaneous detours. So take your time soaking in the atmosphere, and do not be afraid to get lost—as I always say, the best way to explore is by getting lost.
